Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
