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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.